Sunday, July 22, 2007

Out on the town

I finally made it off the ship this week. First, I walked with two friends (Gea from Holland and Helene from Germany) to the supermarket. It was quite an experience during the 45 minute walk to the store. It's very hot and muggy and there are tons of people in the streets as well as lots of taxis driving like crazy people. And for some reason, the Liberian men like to yell at us and make disgusting sucking sounds with their teeth. Fortunately, there was a Mercy Ship car at the supermarket with a dental team so I hitched a ride back with them. Here's a picture of the supermarket. It was pretty decent - kind of like a smalltown grocery store - it has everything you need but just not the brands you like.

My second outing was to a pediatric hospital. Riding in a car here can be a scary experience! The roads are horrible - full of potholes and it doesn't appear that they have any road rules (although I'm told there are actually traffic rules). Here are some pictures of the streets of Monrovia as we were driving to the pediatric hospital.

You can see in these pictures that there are people everywhere. The unemployment rate in Liberia is about 85% which may be why so many people are out in the streets and not working (I'm speculating:).













It takes a long time to get anywhere because the potholes in the roads are so big and they are everywhere. You have to weave in and out of them and try to avoid oncoming traffic. You can see how bad they are in this photo.
The markets are outdoor markets and they go on for what seems like miles, stand after stand selling almost anything you would ever need. This lady is selling fish and what looked like chicken. I can't imagine buying meat like this on the street. I wonder how old it is and how long it's been sitting out in the 90 degree heat?

Here's a couple more random photos taken from the car.















That's all for now. I'll post about my trip to the pediatric hospital maybe tomorrow. The internet is painfully slow tonight and I'm out of patience for uploading photos!!

Peace,
Michele

Monday, July 16, 2007

Ship Life

Now that I've been here for two and 1/2 weeks, I feel like I've settled in and life has become more routine in a good way. I don't have to constantly find out how to do something (like receive mail), where to find something (like the laundry room) or who to ask if I need to know something. I have most of the answers I need in order to live here.

It's a pretty simple life, living on a ship in the port of a country where you can't just hop in a car and go somewhere. I don't have any of that busy-ness we live with in the U.S. I don't have a car to drive or maintain, or fill with gas, there's no grocery shopping or cooking (not that I did that anyways:). There's no commute to work - mine is to walk about ten doors down the hallway. There's no tv watching or going out to restaurants or movies. There's no house cleaning or lawn work. There's no doctor or dentist appts or running errands like running to Target or Home Depot.

What there is a lot of is relaxed, free time. I have a hard time figuring out what day it is (is that what retirement is like?). Unless I'm working a day shift, I sleep in without setting an alarm clock. I have read more books since I've gotten here than I did all last year (if you haven't read Three by Ted Dekker, I would highly recommend it). I spend a lot of time hanging out with people, talking or playing games. I attend 5-6 different worship services a week. I check email or read the news on-line. I walk up and down the dock for exercise when it's not raining or go to an aerobics class. I'm reading through the Bible and at the rate I'm going, I will be done in about four months. I pray a lot with people and alone. I'm in two small groups - one is social and the other is a Bible study with one of the chaplains.

When I'm working, I don't have to work that hard (as a nurse). I take care of our patients' physical and medical needs but once that is done, I get to hang out with them. The ladies are here for two weeks so we really get to know them. As nurses, we hang out with them on their beds and talk to them. We paint their nails, read to them, pray with them, even color with them (they love to color). We sometimes dance with them - they sing a lot. The singing is a funny thing - most of them can't really sing but they don't care. I can't sing so I would never sing out loud alone like they do. I guess no one ever told them they shouldn't sing if they can't carry a tune:)


Here are some pictures of a few ladies I've come to know. We aren't allowed to take photos on the ward unless the patient asks and my friend Korto asked if I'd take a picture. The first photo is a picture of Korto and me. She doesn't speak English and I don't speak Kpelle so we just talk to each other without ever really understanding.





This photo is Korto and Quita. Quita speaks Korto's language plus a little English. So this is how I talk to Korto: Korto says something to Quita in Kpelle, then Quita repeats it in Liberian English to a translator who then repeats it to me in English. It's very funny that the translators have to translate their English to us and our English to them. Liberians speak English as their official language but they don't say the final part of words so I usually can't understand them.

This is a photo of my friend Ans, Korto and four of the translators. Ans is a nurse from Holland who lives in Sweden. She and her husband have been missionaries for Youth With a Mission for 23 years. Her husband and daughter are currently serving short-term in Uganda while she is in Liberia. She is becoming a good friend but she will only be here a few more weeks.

For some, this life will sound boring and others might think it sounds relaxing (who doesn't want to give up some of the drudgeries of life). I personally have found it to be very relaxing, calming and healing. I have a lot of time for reflection and prayer. While I miss my friends and family, I don't miss much of my old life. I love this life so far and I wouldn't trade this experience for anything.

I'm going to a pediatric hospital this Saturday to play with the kids in the hospital. Hopefully we can take pictures or videos and I'll post more about that trip. Peace.

Sunday, July 8, 2007

First week in Liberia

I've been here on the ship for 9 days now and it is going way too fast. I have met so many interesting people from all over the world - there are many people here from the U.S., Canada, Australia and most European countries. I've also met people from Nepal, Sri Lanka and The Congo to name a few of the more exotic locations.

Many, many of these people have been on one of the Mercy Ships for years. Volunteers can come for as little as two weeks (usually these are medical types such as surgeons, dentists) but it seems the majority are here for anywhere between 2 months to a year. If you're interested in a slightly longer short-term mission trip, I would highly recommend applying to the ship. All gifts can be used in some manner!

I have worked four shifts now and it has definitely been a learning experience. While the surgical teams have state-of-the-art equipment, it seems the ward has only equipment other facilities didn't want. This means nursing is done manually without the aid of computers, pumps or machines (except for patients in the ICU) and none of our supplies are consistently the same. You basically scrounge around for something that will work and make it work. This is good in that I've been forced to learn new skills and it also gives me much more time with patients (rather than charting on the computer).

As I said in my earlier post, the majority of surgeries right now are VVF surgeries. This is just a horrible disability that is just never seen in developed countries. Women have obstructed labors for days and days (in which the baby dies) and internally tissue dies and fistulas (or holes) are created. This causes them to leak urine (or feces - sorry for the graphic descriptions but it's true) 24 hours a day. Many have had this condition for years. Can you even imagine living like this? They can't work, their husbands leave them and they can't be around others because they smell horrible. They resort to begging or many live hidden away for their entire lives. It almost seems as if it couldn't be true but I have heard their stories first-hand.

After their repair surgeries, when they are ready to go home, there is a Dress Ceremony on the ward. The ladies receive a new dress (to represent new life) and they have a chance to share their story. Here is a picture of three ladies who have been given a new chance at life. Sadly, some women are so internally damaged that they cannot be repaired. So far I haven't seen that happen and I hope to not ever see it.

It is the rainy season here so it rains pretty much all the time, with a few periods of sunshine. It has made it difficult to get off the ship to go into town but I hope to do that sometime this week. Apparently there are markets, restaurants and beaches that we can go to but I haven't experienced any of those yet. I'm not sure I'll be eating in any restaurant because of my experience in Ghana after eating a hamburger at Popeyes!

Now for a little education on Liberia. Liberia was settled by freeborn Blacks and former slaves from America in the early 1800s and they consider themselves the 51st state. I found this statement very sad considering I don't think the majority of people in the U.S. have ever heard of Liberia or know anything about this country (including myself until I got here). The people of Liberia were emotionally devastated when the U.S. did not come to their aid as they expected during the civil war and there is a sense of sadness now when Liberians talk about America.

In 2002, the country ended a 14 year civil war where some of the most horrific atrocities known to man occurred. We watched a movie last week about the war and I can't even bear to type some of the things that have been done to the people in this country. The former president, Charles Taylor, is now on trial in The Hague for war crimes. Liberia now has the first female elected head of state in Africa. Her name is Ellen Johnson-Sirleaf and she is a Harvard trained economist.

Their life expectancy here is only 41 (males) and 44 (females). That means most of my friends would be dead by now and I'd only have two more years to live! They are ranked fifth from the bottom for child mortality out of all the countries in the world.

There is definitely hope here. Mercy Ships has many, many, many off-ship projects going on to help the people of this country including the creating of mental health programs for the hundreds of thousands of people traumatized during the war. It's a huge undertaking but all things are possible with God - that is why there is hope.

That's all my teaching for now. I'm feeling compelled to talk about what has gone on here, mainly because of my own ignorance about this country. They love America and I didn't even know they existed.

There will be more later! Thanks everyone for your comments and emails. It makes me feel connected so even if you want to send me an email with boring details about your life, I'd love to read them. Even tell me about any great restaurants you've been to - the food here is absolutely horrible and it has definitely taken away any desire I have for food (that's a good thing:).

Peace,
Michele

Wednesday, July 4, 2007

Pictures



This is one of the hospital wards I am working in. It is very close quarters and our Western sensibilities would be very offended by the lack of privacy (because of that ole HIPAA law). Our African ladies love it because they all sit around and sing and do each other's hair.

Here's my bed - I'm very grateful that I got the bottom bunk!




The dock -nothing like Navy Pier in Chicago but it lets us get out and walk around. This is one of the places the kids play (there are around 50 kids on the ship, most under the age of 8).



This is Suah who was blind and received sight. She was the first surgery on this new ship. They are celebrating in the ward. Africans love to celebrate by singing and dancing.

Sunday, July 1, 2007

First weekend in Africa

I arrived in Monrovia, Liberia safely and uneventfully after a 24 hour trip that took me through Chicago, Brussels, Senegal and then Liberia. Thank you to all of you who were praying for my safe arrival.

The ship is bigger than I imagined and has quite a few amenities. We have an internet cafe, Starbucks cafe, a small grocery store, a gym, a laundromat and a fully stocked library. In addition, it has a fully functioning hospital with about 84 beds, including ICU beds and 6 operating rooms.

The hospital just opened last week and is not working at max capacity yet. Currently they are doing VVF surgeries and eye surgeries. VVF is a fistula women get after prolonged labor that causes urine to leak out of them constantly. It is a very stigmatizing disability and women are very often shunned and left by their husbands because of it.

God is so alive and at work here on the ship, you know it the minute you get here. People seem to be on a constant God-high, the kind you usually see on mission trips. Everyone is here because of their desire to serve Him and He is openly and frequently the topic of conversation. Obviously not like any work environment I have every been in.

I have met so many people from all over the world. I went to church today with a Ghanaian, Nigerian, South African, German, Canadian and three Americans. We went to a Baptist church with a service that lasted 3 hours (yes, 3 hours - that is not a typo). Two hours was singing and dancing and the other hour was preaching. It is so inspiring to see people worship so freely - it definitely was a joyful noise considering the sound system was not of the quality I am used to:)

I start work Monday with two days of orientation. All non-ICU nursing is done manually without the aid of pumps, computers and nurse's aides so it will definitely be a learning experience.

So far everything has been far better than I had imagined (including my room). God is good.

Friday, April 27, 2007

I've recently gotten some additional details about my upcoming year in Africa. First the bad news - I will be sharing a room with 5 other people and we'll be sleeping in bunk beds. Yes, bunk beds - just like camp! I expect to meet some really interesting people from all over the world and now I'll be sharing close quarters with some of them.

Now for the good news. I will be spending the first five months living on the ship in the port of Monrovia, Liberia. Then sometime in early December, the ship will be sailing to the Canary Islands for about two months. The Canary Islands are owned by Spain and are located off the coast of NW Africa. During this time, the ship will be in dry dock (meaning it will be undergoing maintenance and stocking of supplies) and I will be living off-ship. I assume I will be working during those two months but I'm also envisioning plenty of beach time!!

After the break in the Canary Islands, we'll sail to Sierra Leone where we'll remain until I leave in July, 2008. Mercy Ships has an existing land office in Sierra Leone that focuses on the rehabilitation of land-mine victims. I haven't had much time to research Sierra Leone yet but I know they have spent many years in civil war until 2002.

After Sierra Leone, I hope to do a little traveling in Africa and then return home sometime towards the end of the summer of 2008.

Thursday, April 5, 2007

My plane ticket is bought and I'm one step closer to Liberia. I leave Des Moines on June 28 and arrive in Monrovia on June 29. That will give me two days to recover before I start working. Here's my flight itinerary:
  • AA446 Des Moines to Chicago 12:45 pm to 1:59 pm
  • AA088 Chicago to Brussells, Belgium 4:30 pm to 7:40 am
  • SN235 Brussells to Dakar, Senegal to Monrovia Liberia 9:40 am to 5:50 pm
  • (Airline SN is called SN Brussells and it's the only non-African airline that flies into Liberia)
Thank you soooooo much to all of you who are supporting me financially and prayerfully! Less than three months to go.